Beyond St Patrick’s Day
Beyond St. Patrick
Going Green in Buenos Eire

By Sanra Ritten

Though St. Patrick’s Day is growing in popularity you might still need to play the ole ‘Che Guevara was of Irish descent’ card to get your Argentine friends to join you on March 17. But the fact that Argentina holds the world’s fifth largest Irish population outside of Ireland should convince you that there’s more to Irish Buenos Aires than an annual Guinness binge.

St. Paddy

On the big day Reconquista in the center is closed to traffic and overtaken by the local Irish pubs and their drunken patrons. The Federation of Argentine-Irish Associations is quick to clarify that the impromptu festival is not an official celebration of the Irish community. They organize more traditional, relatively sober events to pay homage to their patron saint.

But if you would still like to wear green and drink beer try the less obnoxious but still very festive bars Shamrock (Rodriguez Peña 1220, Recoleta), Dubliners (Humboldt 2000, Palermo) and The Clover (Piedras 78, San Telmo).

There will also be a Celtic exhibition on March 15-16 at the Teatro del Globo (M. T. de Alvear 1155) with live performances by Irish dancers and musicians. The tickets start at AR$15 and can be purchased directly at the theater. Check www.festivalcelta.com.ar for more details.

Wholesome St. Pat’s Activities
10am homage to General San Martín at the Catedral Metropolitana on Rivadavia and San Martin, Centro.
10:45am homage to Guillermo Brown at the Recoleta Cementery.
8pm mass at the Santa Cruz Church on Estados Unidos and Urquiza, San Cristóbal.
9pm Social gathering at the Casa Nazareth, Carlos Calvo 3121, San Telmo.

A historical hermitage

Five hectares of tree-lined Pampean landscape surround the San Pablo Monastery, a testament to Irish presence here in the late 19th century. It’s 160km from the capital between the towns of Arrecifes and Carmen de Areco and open to visitors on weekends (9:30am-5:30pm). On Saturday 29 March, to commemorate its recent declaration as a historic monument, there will be a special mass and lunch, accompanied (of course) by traditional music and dance.

Even monks are affected by inflation, and have resorted to hiring the place out for events. It also makes a gorgeous weekend retreat with horseback riding, hiking trails, bike riding, sports facilities and even helicopter rides. Camp or stay in a refurbished monk’s cell – not five-star, but simple, clean and relaxing. A room for two (we’re guessing not original) costs around AR$250, but check www.retiro-sanpablo.com.ar or call Jerry Rush on 02322-498-718 for more information.

More than stew

In the 19th and early 20th centuries some 50,000 Irish people immigrated to Argentina and left a legacy of about 500,000 descendants, many of whom are still trying to keep their culture alive in Buenos Aires. Hernan Santiago Bizzare, a third generation Irish-Argentine, is a chef who owns El Irlandes Gourmet (4641-0993, elirlandesgourmet@gmail.com), making artisanal Irish products with a touch of Argentina. Staple products like Irish condiments and an old stout are backed up by jams and sauces homemade according to what is in season. His best seller combines the best of both countries, dulce de leche with chocolate chips and whiskey. Sample Hernan’s magic via home deliveries, or track him down at the Celtic expo held occasionally March to November in Belgrano. Check dates at www.festivalcelta.com.ar.

Clubs and Clovers

Social clubs have been key in helping Irish-Argentines maintain their bond with the motherland. The Hurling Club was started in 1887 by Irish immigrants practicing the eponymous sport in the province of Buenos Aires. Today it is an active sports club offering tennis, rugby, field hockey and swimming. On 29 March at 9pm there will be a belated St. Patrick’s Day bash with a typical Irish dinner, music and dancing in their new Irish government-funded building funded by the Irish government. Av. Gdor. Vergara 5415, Hurlingham, 4665-0903, www.hurling-club.com.ar

The Fahy Club is a 67-year-old social club founded by alumni of the Irish Catholic school, Instituto Fahy. On 29 March they will also be celebrating a belated St. Patrick’s Day with an asado, tea and Irish bands playing from 1pm. Call for information and reservations. The lunch is AR$40 per person. Av. Congreso 2931, Belgrano, 4555-1078, 15-5728-8114

The Southern Cross, a Catholic Irish newspaper

If you need to catch up on Irish politics and economics, are a history buff or are just bored, browse their library with every published edition dating back to 1875 (Riobamba 451 4ºC, M-F 10am-1pm, 2-5pm). Stop by to pick up the latest copy, or call 4372-1041 for subscriptions.

Music Lessons

Learn to sing or tin-whistle good ol’ Irish folk songs at the Escuela de Música Celta in Congreso. Check their website for classes and workshops. www.escuelacelta.com.ar, info@escuelacelta.com.ar, 15-6406-1031.